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Thoughts about converting and living in a bus
I thought that I would put some of the things that I have learned about
converting our bus on a page for other's that are interested in converting
a bus.
As I go along in the conversion process I will try to put things that
would otherwise not be put anywhere else on the web site on this
page. I'm not sure how to organize it quite yet, so for now, I am
going to just add headings as needed to keep things together in a way that
makes sense to me.
So far I have added the following headings:
If you have any questions about anything you find here or wish were
here, let me know and I'll
try to answer them and update this page as well...
I have used a number of tools during the conversion process. Some
of them I had already and some of them I purchased at some point during
the conversion. A few have been indispensable while others have been useful, but
not worth buying if it is possible to rent or borrow them instead. I
thought that I would share what I have learned and possibly help someone
else save some time and money in the process.
The list below contains some of the tools that I believe anyone
converting a bus should seriously consider and why.
Cordless Drill/Screw Driver (Critical - buy highest quality
highest voltage you can afford)
Buy the highest quality you can afford! This is the most
useful tool I have in my possession. There are times that I wish
that I had 2 cordless drills so that drilling and driving screws could
be accomplished without switching bits or hauling around the power
drill. Look for a really durable model with the better batteries (Ni-Mh)
and a keyless chuck. I can't stand looking for allen wrenches or
other specific "keys" to change bits or blades when you are
on a roll. Anything 9V or less will be torn apart or not up to the
task. My cordless drill is 12V (I would recommend an even more
powerful model if you can afford it) and has done the job pretty well. The high speed switch is showing signs of damage
on mine because I abuse it by using the drill setting to put in self
drilling screws quickly... I imagine that I will have to replace
mine at some point in the near future... I would not recommend
borrowing one from someone for that very reason.
Circular Saw (Critical - borrow or buy an inexpensive one)
I can't imagine the teardown or construction process without a
circular saw. The amount of time it was taking to remove the old
floor before we bought this tool was ridiculous. The circular
saw is used on almost a daily basis, which makes renting one
too expensive.
You do not have to buy the expensive model. My saw cost
around $70.00 and included a carrying case. You will need to buy
a carbide tipped blade to replace the crummy steel blade that comes with the
cheaper models.
So far my cheap circular saw is holding up just fine and does a
decent job even compared to my old $250.00 worm drive saw.
Variable Speed Electric Drill (Critical - borrow or buy an
inexpensive one)
There are jobs that the cordless drill just shouldn't be used or
can't do the job. It's also really nice to have when
pre-drilling holes for screws so that you don't have to switch bits
when using the cordless screw driver. I recommend that you get a
variable speed drill so that you can have more control over the drill
speed when extracting rusted out and difficult screws.
Extracting screws is not easy and the cordless drill takes a
beating under the stress. Even my inexpensive electric drill is
5 times as powerful and fast as my expensive cordless one, and there
are times when the cordless drill is just not up to the task and will
shut down.
Jig Saw (Critical - borrow or buy an inexpensive one)
You will need this tool. They are fairly inexpensive ( around
$50) and indispensable. I have a rather pricey model that has
various speeds, clutch etc. I have never changed the speed
setting on mine or noticed any real advantage compared to the cheapest
construction level model.
My jig saw has a tendency to change angle on me throughout the
day. If I were to purchase one new, I would get some that has a
very secure way of keeping the base plate at 90 degrees from the
blade. No matter how hard I tighten the allen head set
screw on mine, it changes angle on me every so often.
Miter Saw (Critical - borrow or buy one that fits your budget)
I purchased a decent quality miter saw (not the powered kind) that
I use for cutting lath, 2x2's and even 2x4's. It allows me to
cut the angles needed to match the ceiling curve.
If I could afford to buy a nice electric miter saw I would have,
but for $30.00 I picked up a high quality manual one that I can use
for both construction, finish trimming and even some work on the
cabinets when that time comes... I don't think a standard box
miter would work considering all of the odd angles that need to be
cut.
High Speed Grinder with Cutoff Wheel (Nice to have - Borrow or
Buy an inexpensive one)
I have come across many situations where the grinder has taken care
of the problem in short order. This tool is great for grinding
down broken screw bodies, cutting off difficult bolts and rivets and
even cutting through wood and metal in a few very tight spots where
the saw can't get. Borrow the grinder if you can - there's not
much damage that you can do if you buy your grinding & cutoff
disks. They're not too expensive if you have to buy one.
Renting would be silly since you never seem to know when your are
going to need it. I have had to use mine at least once every few
days since the beginning of this project.
Reciprocating Saw/"Sawzall" (Really nice to have -
borrow
or rent one when you need it)
There were a few times that the reciprocating saw made quick work
of an otherwise difficult cut (especially through the steel raised
platform supports during tear down). I do however regret buying
one for the number of times that I have used it. I image in that
it will come in handy once again when I need to cut access holes in
the steel siding and roof of the bus, but for quite some time it has
sat in it's carrying case unused.
If you can find someone that can loan you one now and then, borrow
it. Otherwise I would recommend renting one for a day at a time
when you know you could use it. Unlike the grinder, I've known
in advance when I have needed the reciprocating saw.
Drill Sharpener (A money and time saver - Borrow or Buy if you
can afford)
I bought a "Drill Doctor" shortly after we started
converting the bus. The hardened steel screws and bolts that
held the raised floor panels in place ate up half a dozen carbide bits
before I invested in this tool. I have used the sharpener at
least 30 times, and at $2.50-$5.00 cost for a new drill bit, I feel
that this tool has paid for itself already. It's a judgment
call, but I think this is a necessary tool especially if you are
planning to drill out rivets and replace or cover part of the exterior
of your bus. Sharp bits pay for themselves by saving time, wear
on your drills and the effort you have to put into the work.
If you can find someone that owns one, have them show you how to
use it and borrow it. I don't know if you can rent one or not -
they require some instruction and practice to use - especially with
some brands of split point carbide drill bits. Unfortunately,
the Drill Doctor was around $100.00 for the model that covered the
various sizes and types of drills that I have been using. I
imagine that there are cheaper models out there, but the selection at
the stores here was minimal as they only carried the really cheap ones
that only sharpened a couple of types of drill bits or the expensive Drill
Doctor line.
Shop Vacuum (Nice to have - Borrow or Buy inexpensive)
We use the shop vacuum pretty regularly. During the tear down
phase, there was a ton of heavy black dust everywhere. The shop vacuum
helped to get rid of a lot of it and pulls the dust and debris out of
the cracks and crevices where the broom can't get.
Buy a package of extra paper filters and cover the sponge filter
with the paper ones if you don't want to breathe the black dust.
The dust will shoot out the exhaust if you don't use the paper
filters. They will clog and need to be replaced fairly
frequently, so keep an extra supply on hand.
Camera (Nice to have [ critical in my opinion ] Borrow or Buy
inexpensive)
Obviously this web site would be much less than it is without all
of the pictures, but there are other reasons to have a camera handy
during the conversion process.
I have found that remembering how something was wired or the
location of something (like a support brace) is easy to find if I look
back at one of the images I took earlier. I purposefully take
pictures of complicated wiring before I work on it so that I can
always look back at how it was before I started... If I want to
know what that bus wiring (now hanging out of the side of the wall
because you had to remove something) used to connect to, the images
are there.
It's nice to have a record of your work. When I start to feel
like I am not making much progress, I look back at past saved pictures
and I feel much more motivated to keep working.
Last, but not least. Share the pictures with your friends,
family and on the internet if you can. If you are converting a
bus, I guarantee that people will want to see what you are talking
about all of the time. <grin>
Buy a digital camera. Some of them are so cheap now.
You don't need high resolution for anything of the above reasons to
purchase a camera. I can't post anything at the size my camera
takes the pictures anyway. If I posted them at high resolution
it would take 1/2 hour to load some of my pages on a dial up
connection to the internet.
Other Important Conversion Tools
- Large square
- Compass
- Tape measure
- Chalk line w/extra chalk
- 36" Level
- Hammer
- Pry bar
- Drill bit set
- Screw extractor (after buying 3 different kinds, I would recommend
the type that comes with a drill bit and a reverse spiral extractor
- the other's are next to useless)
- Various sized screw drivers (both phillips and standard)
- A socket set with attachments so you can use the cordless drill
with them
- Box or Carpet knife w/spare blades (lots of them)
- Window scraper w/spare razors
- Hack saw w/metal cutting blades
- Hand ("voom-pa") saw <grin>
- Wire cutters
- Quality wire strippers
"Must Have" Supplies
- WD-40 or equivalent penetrating oil
- Tape (electrical, duct and masking)
- Pencils & sharpener
- Graph paper
- Chalk (large sidewalk chalk worked perfectly and didn't break off
when drawing plans on the floor of the bus)
- Self drilling sheet metal screws in various lengths
- Spare screw driver tips (I have broken 4 so far...)
- Tarps (various sizes for covering things that you don't want
wet/dirty)
- Shop towels (cloth and disposable)
- Bactine spray or some other antiseptic spray/ointment
along with various sizes of self adhesive bandages (you will give
blood to the bus at several points during the conversion process no
matter how careful you are...)
- Water! Keep lots of water on hand. I go through a
gallon or more of fluids while I am working on the bus at
times. Water is the most satisfying choice. Make it easy
to access and out in the open where you will find it. You will
be working very hard and regardless of the temperature, you need
fluids to keep from getting dehydrated. If you feel thirsty,
you're already dehydrated. Every time you stop working to
admire your handiwork, you should have a drink (non alcoholic of
course) in your hand. Save the beer for the evening's
celebration when you are done working for the day.
- Gloves (both work and disposable rubber/latex)
- Dust masks (I'm terrible at remembering this one too, but the
black nose goblins are not there because it's Halloween - some of
that black dust made it into your lungs...)
- Shatterproof glasses or goggles
- Ear plugs or equivalent.
Those of you wondering why I included all of the safety crap in my
list of "must have" supplies - just wait until you take on
this project... I HIGHLY recommend you use common sense and
listen to your logical side for a minute... Yes, you can do this
whole bus conversion thing naked and will most likely survive
(although slightly less hairy on the day that you start using the
grinder)... Unfortunately, in converting a bus that has been
passed from one company to the next and has (who knows how many) quick
and dirty "fixes" to problems that came up with the bus over
the years, the odds are not quite as in your favor as you might
think.
I have given some blood to my conversion and even with eye
protection, had a few times where I had to make use of eye
drops. There's no reason to work on the bus with your eyes
almost completely closed and your ears ringing. Take the 30
seconds that it takes to put gloves on, protect your vision and/or hearing
and be smart. I've worked for the medical industry for over 20
years now... Everybody in the ER took a gamble on the 1 in a
million chance it might happen and lost. Nobody is in there because they
are stupid - just because
their number came up. It's a lot like the lottery - you might
win... 30
seconds preparation and feeling a little over cautious is better than feeling
really stupid and shelling out $500.00+ in the ER (or walking around winking at everything trying to get that piece of metal
shaving out of your eye). Be careful, bus conversion is not a
tag team macho sport - it's an adventure. If you are converting a bus to look cool
and get chicks, I suggest that you try the naked route... Please trust me on this one,
even if you do go the naked route put the stupid looking
goggles and gloves on. Chicks dig men with all their parts in
"like new" condition...
That's my list of recommended tools and supplies so far.
Obviously, if you are determined to prove me wrong you can accomplish a bus conversion without
any of the tools
listed, but I feel sorry for the person that has to try to remove all of
the screws in the bus with a standard set of screw drivers. As
a old friend of mine used to say "You don't need to buy a boat if you
know a friend who owns one." If you don't own the tools and
can't afford to get them, now's the time to call some
friends... Otherwise, If you don't have the money or
friendship base to get conversion related tools, then you might want to
reconsider converting a bus...
I've spent quite a bit of time now reading other people's ideas of how
to convert a bus. I have come to the conclusion that there is no definitive
answer to the question "how do I convert a bus?".
There are so many ways to answer that question that it is silly to think
that anyone could... Not only do I wonder what it means to be
"converted" but I wonder to what degree. I mean, a bus
that is intended for a weekend retreat like most RVs is converted to some
degree, but to a full time resident would not be adequate...
I personally think that anyone that wants to do a bus conversion can
convert a bus to some degree or another. Unfortunately, for those of us
that don't have access to a large sum of money or seemingly endless space
and/or resources, there is a HUGE gray area around what a conversion means
and what is the "correct" way to convert it. In purely logical
terms, I would consider anything that someone is living in full time as a
complete conversion. So, if you have a sustainable place that you
can live in any location, you have a complete conversion. What that
means to me may be completely different to someone else. I have a
family and certain minimum requirements to consider my bus
"converted". A single person could get along just fine
with a sleeping bag and portable toilet. To them the bus is
converted.
I need to have certain modern luxuries in place before I consider the
conversion "complete". The luxuries are based somewhat on
what my wife expects and on what society expects. If it were just
me, my complete conversion would consist of a toilet, sink, fridge, stove,
couch (for sitting and sleeping) and a desk. I must add in storage
closets, tv, washer/dryer, beds, heating & A/C, water heater,
microwave, bathroom sink, security, extra lighting, etc for the rest of
the family.
To us a completed conversion is a bit more than most. We have
become used to a certain number of "necessities", so I have a
lot of work to do...
The real answer to "how do I convert a bus?" is based on the
person asking the question. If you think that you need a high end
Prevost, MCI, or Eagle, the answer is a lot more
complicated. If you are happy with a Bluebird, International or low
end GMC then the answer is a lot less complicated...
In my opinion, you have successfully converted your bus when you fit in with your
peers... Alternatively, you have successfully converted
your bus when you move in and find you have everything you need is
there. It may not be "perfect" and need some refinement,
but if you are happy, then you have a successful conversion. Don't
let the experts tell you what you need to do. If you are too cold,
you need better heaters or insulation, or you need to drive to some place
that is warmer... Follow your inner voice. Nobody can tell you
what will satisfy you. You need to be honest with yourself and make
the decision when your conversion is complete.
Now that you have all of that in mind, I would like to add one more
little piece of food for thought...
Is this your last conversion? Do you plan to live in it for the
rest of your life?
So, design it to make you happy for the next 3-5 years while you work
on the next conversion and stop worrying about silly details...
First things first. I am obviously not an expert at wiring.
I am learning as fast as I can and trying to make sure that my bus
conversion is safe for many years to come. Anyone reading this and
considering doing your own bus conversion should consult a qualified
electrician and not rely on anything that I have written. I do not
know what the wiring codes require for converted busses or even if there
is a code. I will see if I can find out what the requirements are
for Oregon before I get too far into the wiring of my bus.
I have not finished wiring my bus as I am writing this. There is a lot of seemingly conflicting
information out there on the subject of wiring. I started out
wiring everything in the bus with stranded wire, but not correctly incased
in conduit and secured with the proper fittings and strapping. I have come to
the conclusion that the 110V AC wiring for most of the bus can be done with
standard solid conductor house wire not run through conduit.
While stranded wire seems to be the preferred wire type for those that
want to have the best installed in their bus, I am not convinced that it
is better for the lower end bus converter on a budget and may even lead to
problems for those who may try to cut corners because of the extra expense
of running conduit and stranded wire correctly throughout the entire bus.
I ran into big problems with cost right from the beginning.
Stranded wire is expensive. The wire I have found is almost 10 times
the cost of Romex style house wiring. In addition, I found out that
stranded wire should be run through conduit which should be properly
secured to each junction box. If the wire is not run through conduit
it is difficult to secure in a manner that doesn't allow the wire to shift
around and sag in between horizontal runs. I believe that the
sagging and shifting of the wire will lead to problems with vibration
causing the wire to become brittle and/or rub against other things and
eventually become exposed and a hazard.
There are a few places that I will not be using Romex style
house wiring for my 110V circuits and I feel that I should note them here:
- I will not use Romex in situations where the wire is exposed to the
elements and/or can be physically manipulated by someone or
something. If it can be pulled or snagged by anything, the wire
needs to be appropriately protected. I believe that to run the
wire in conduit correctly, the wire should be stranded instead of
solid core since it can move around and vibrate to some degree inside
the conduit and might become brittle over time. As an example I
need to run several circuits of wire under the floor of the bus to the
other side. Since the wire can potentially be exposed to road
grime (water, oil, dirt, rocks, etc.) I will be running it through a
conduit that is designed for exterior installations in high traffic
wet locations. In addition, the stranded wire that I am using
inside the length of conduit is treated to be resistant to gas, oil
and moisture in case the conduit should fail to protect the wire
inside to any degree.
- I will not use the Romex style wire in any instance where the wire
can come in contact any metal that is part of the bus. Unlike
most residential installations, the framing and other metal parts of
the bus are all connected together for the most part. If a wire
shorts to a piece of metal frame or siding, the entire bus becomes a
circuit. Most of the exterior and many places on the interior of
my bus are exposed metal and would present a deadly hazard... I
will need to run some wire for lighting in between the supports for
the roof of the bus. There are places where the wire will have
to pass through a gap in the metal framing and over time could
eventually come in contact with it. I will use the stranded
wire, run through conduit and secured to a light fixture or junction
box that is designed to secure the conduit in place.
I may come across other instances where Romex wiring will not work, but
I believe that the 2 instances above cover the majority of them in one
form or another.
Another wiring related issue worth addressing is that of
grounding. My understanding is that grounding is different in a bus
or motor home than it is in a properly wired house. Since the bus
sits on rubber tires and is not in any way permanently attached to the
ground I assume that the ground should only be back through the wire that
connects to the land line. I will verify that I have this
information correct later and post what I find out here... For now,
keep in mind that I read this information on line and have not verified it
to be correct from a reliable source. I also do not know how the
wiring will change once we switch to no longer having a land line and are
getting our AC power entirely from an inverter connected up to a battery
bank... I'll keep adding to this section as I learn more...
I plan to consult with an electrician at some point before the wiring
is easy to inspect. I believe that having my electrical work
inspected by a qualified electrician is worth any fee that I may have to
pay. I want my wiring to be safe and I want to make sure that any
problems with my wiring job are addressed properly before relying on it.
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